Sunday, December 12, 2010

The Hoff



An update on Warren's hair growth - last time I blogged he had a nice mullet coming along. Well now its turned into the David Hasselhoff special! Especially when he's just washed it and it goes all fluffy and curly...

I think just a bit more growing and it will be good - but he's determined to go to his favourite "Dr Snippy's" for a haircut on our first day back in Perth!

Kente Cloth





This weekend we finally managed to visit the town of Bonwire which is famous around these parts for being the home of Kente cloth. Kente cloth is the traditional cloth of this Ashanti area, and in particular, it is the cloth the Ashanti king wears - and the weavers for his cloth are all in Bonwire. Now the Ashanti king is the most important of all the different tribes kings, so essentially is one of the most powerful men in Ghana. So Kente cloth is really the symbollic cloth of Ghana.

The cloth comes in lots of different colours and designs, and each one has a name and a meaning. For example, we bought some called "Family is unity" and another called "All hands are not the same" (I think that means everyone has their own special talents). The cloth is always used for traditional dress - so the women have it made into a cabba top and slit skirt, and the men wear it draped around their body and over their shoulders, so it is only sold in 6 or 12 yard lengths! Although I suspect we might be using it for table runners, wall hangings or pillow cases (don't tell anyone though!)

I had a try of weaving it also which was fun - see the look of concentration on my face! But I now understand why it takes such a long time to make - most pieces take about three months to finish. Hence, it isn't cheap to buy either (between $30 - 50 dollars per metre, depending upon the quality). And the people are therefore desperate to sell it too - I haven't been hassled so much to "buy buy buy" since I was in Bali last! Eventually we had to jump in the car and speed off down the road! Bye bye Bonwire!

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Marketplace Acceptance

A strange thing happened today - I went to the markets this morning with Rita to buy fruit and vegetables, where I've been going every week or so since I've been here. There are hundreds of people at the markets selling things, but I've found my favourite places - like the lady who sells the best tomatoes, the woman opposite her sells onions, only one lady ever has carrots and another one usually has good apples and bananas.

I know that I usually pay "obruni" prices - ie the price is more expensive than local prices, but I figure it doesn't matter too much - its still reasonably cheap. Normally it costs me about $20 for fruit and veg for a week.

However today I bought tomatoes first, and they were really cheap. I thought maybe they were in season so were cheaper. Then the onions were also really cheap, then the next lady put some extra capsicums for free, and the lady selling limes gave me two bags instead of one.... By this stage I was wondering what was going on, and said to Rita "Everything is cheap today" and she said "Yes, they like you - so now you don't pay obruni prices".

Yay - I'm officially a black lady at the markets!

What a clever girl!



Look what baby Jacinta can do - she's learnt to sit up all by herself, and she's only just over four months old! (I'm actually not sure when babies usually sit, but I thought it was maybe 5-6 months?) Her mother has been sitting her up in the corner of a cardboard box for a few weeks now, and then last week she could just sit by herself and now sits for at least ten minutes at a time. What a quick learner (just like her namesake!)

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Wigs and Weave-ons






I've been fascinated by this subject for some time now - the idea of artificial hair. Just about all the ladies here use artificial hair because their natural hair doesn't grow very well. At school all the children have their hair shaved short, so the women only begin to grow their hair when they've finished school. Their natural hair is very stiff and brittle, and not really curly - I'd describe it as tiny crimps! So it is definitely the fashion to use artificial hair.

At first I didn't realise this, until I noticed everyone's hair style changed every two or three weeks. And short to long overnight.... They use cornrow braids with artificial hair braided in, "weave ons" which are hair pieces that are stitched it to place, hair pieces like a big bun or ponytail, and wigs.

I've included some photos of Rita with her various hair styles - the first one are weave on braids she had when we first arrived. The photos with the fitball is her natural hair; the one with the green dress is a wig; the one in the pink dress is hair pieces that are stitched on; and the latest one is her new shaggy poodle look!

Six-hour church service!

Just to add to my cultural experiences, today I went to church here for the first time. Now I had been trying to avoid it because by all reports Sunday church goes for a LONG time. But Rita's mum asked me the other day because it was a special "Harvest" ceremony this week, and I couldn't say no to her!

So off I went to church at 9am - as per usual there was no-one there until almost 10 (I'm going to have to start adjusting my watch to Ghanaian time!) Then they started singing - first with the old ladies choir and organ, and then with a young music group complete with drum kit and bass guitar. They really know how to belt out a tune - everyone sings at the top of their voices, arms waving in the air or clapping and dancing. One old lady kept me particularly entertained, she was waving her arms like the chicken dance (which is actually an old traditional dance) and having a lovely time.

Things went a little downhill for me after that - there were bible readings and then an evangelical preacher who went on and on and on....for about two hours. Except not in English, so I didn't understand anything apart from the frequent "sweet Jesus" and "Alleluia, I say, Alleluia!"

Part way through Rita went outside to get some water and popcorn for her little nephew Jo, so we all sat in church eating popcorn! How strange!

At 12pm I asked Rita how much longer it would go for, and she said maybe 3 o'clock! I wasn't keen to stay for another three hours, so we quietly snuck out the back and went home! I think Rita was as pleased as I was to go home... Although we might be in trouble with her mum next time I see her!

Our First Ghanaian Wedding!






Apologies to all my avid blog readers out there - I haven't posted anything for at least a week or so! I didn't really have anything interesting to write about..... However now I do, because yesterday we went to our first Ghanaian wedding! Which was an interesting cultural experience.

The wedding was for a girl called Debora who is a housekeeper at one of the other houses here at the mine, and her husband Bright (whom we had never met before!). Actually we've only met Debora a few times as well - she also sells phone card credit - so I usually buy them from her. So it was nice of them to invite us along.

In true Ghanaian fashion, the ceremony started late - we arrived at 10am, and no-one was there! So by 11am finally the groom showed up (the bride doesn't come until later in the ceremony). There are some interesting old traditions, which are quite humorous at times.... a representative of the brides' family has to state their intentions for coming, and then all the family members and special guests introduces themselves formally (including us!). Then the groom's family presents their agreed gifts (like a dowry), which included wedding rings, a bible, a bottle of Schnapps liquer (always a favourite), fabric for the bride to make beautiful dresses, and some "big money" for the father of the bride.

The funniest part was when the bride was brought in and presented to the groom, and the pastor asked "Is this the correct woman?". Apparently they used to have a tradition of bringing in another lady instead (usually a really ugly one!) They have the usual exchange of rings, but interestingly there was no mention of love at all!

We then moved on to the reception (or "refreshments" as they call it), which was outside - thankfully with some tents set up. Warren and I were "special guests" at the high table, and Warren had to give a little speech which he wasn't expecting! There was lots of loud music and dancing which is always fun, but by 2.30pm we still hadn't had anything to eat or drink and I was really beginning to wilt in the hot weather! So eventually we excused ourselves, saying that Warren had to go back to work (which was half true!). Those celebrations can go on for a really long time....

Hopefully you can see in the picture my dress - its a traditional Ghanaian style dress called a "cabba and slit" - the cabba is the top, and slit is the skirt which usually has a slit in the side or back. It was given to me by Comfort (from Mercy Mission), and everyone was very impressed that I wore one! "Oh Madam Jessie you look so beautiful today!" I can't say it was the most comfortable thing though - its all lined and very fitted - the tighter the better! (I actually let the top out a bit after it was made because it was just too tight!)

Also notice Warren's nice African shirt, completed in true Aussie style - with double plugger thongs - his favourites from Esperance Bait and Tackle shop!